Farm & Home
Ag Line: Azalea leaves turning yellow
By Wade Parker
County Extension Coordinator

It is sometimes difficult to make your landscape look the best this time of year. The grass is brown, the perennial plants are dormant, and the trees have shed all of their leaves. My bermuda grass has been trying its best to hold on, but after last week, it is completely dormant. The majority of plants go dormant this time of the year. However, evergreen plants by definition should remain green and healthy!

Despite our best efforts, the leaves on certain evergreen plants turn yellow and are unsightly! This is true of azaleas, gardenias, and hollies.

I have had several questions from my azalea people complaining about yellow leaves. “Why are so many of the leaves on my azalea plants turning yellow?” This year, it appears many azalea plants have more yellow leaves than green leaves. Usually, as I make azalea visits this time of year, we see a few older leaves yellowing with the younger leaves remaining green; but this does not apply to the majority.

Azaleas are very tempermental plants. Their fibrous root system like well drained, but moist soils. As everyone remembers, we experienced one of the worst droughts on record, followed by a wet autumn. This in turn may have damaged some roots. Azaleas do not like extreme variations in soil moisture.

Unfortunately, there is not much we can do about them now. Fertilizing now will not fix this problem and, in fact, could further complicate this situation. In the future, proper planting and maintenance will help prevent this problem in the future.

A few tips are listed below that will help prevent the winter discoloration of azaleas:

Plant azaleas in well drained soils in partially shaded locations. The shade provided by planting them next to a building is not always enough shade. If they must be planted in the sun, they prefer the morning sun. Plant azaleas in slightly raised beds, if possible. Plant them no deeper than they originally grew.

The roots may be pot-bound when you buy them. This is when the roots are tightly matted together. Pot-bound roots form a tough ball that the roots may never grow out of. Cut the root ball or break the roots down four sides of the root ball if the plant is pot bound. Spread the roots out as you add soil.

Also, plant azaleas in beds, if possible, and not individual holes. Till the area well. You do not need to add compost to the soil. Put a three-inch mulch over the entire bed after planting.

Water the soil well to settle the roots. Plant in fall and winter for best results.

Proper planting and watering are critical steps in assuring success in growing azaleas. Azaleas and other shrubs must be watered for best results. This is especially true during the first year. Water the soil so as it keeps it moist but not wet for the first six months. After that, water when soil dries out, wetting the soil to a depth of 12 inches. Water three-quarter to one inch a week during drought conditions. After plants are established, do not water every day or every other day! Frequent watering can kill plants.

Enter the New Year with beautiful azaleas!

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