Ag Line: Home Garden Pecans
By Wade Parker County Extension Coordinator

Even though it will soon be March, can you believe some people are still picking up yard pecans! I have heard some people in the pecan industry say this has been the largest yard tree crop since 1993. I, like the majority of people, thought the Easter freeze had destroyed the entire crop. However, as time passed, it was very clear the freeze had caused minimal damage. As August approached, the limbs on most of the pecan trees were hanging low.

I have fielded many questions the past two weeks concerning the care of yard trees. Pecan trees in the yard are not very hard to take care of. The biggest problem is the lack of equipment needed to do a good job managing diseases and insects. However, there are some things a homeowner can do that might be of help.

Fertilization is one of the most important practices for bearing trees. If the trees are to produce a good crop, terminal growth should be six inches each year. In the absence of a leaf analysis or soil test, broadcast four pounds of a complete fertilizer such as 10-10-10 for each inch of trunk diameter (measure 4 1/2 feet above soil level). This fertilizer should be applied in mid-to-late February. Zinc nutrition is especially important in pecan production. Zinc needs are best determined by analysis of leaf samples taken in late July. In the absence of a leaf analysis, apply one pound of zinc sulfate to young trees and three to five pounds for large trees each year. A soil pH of 6.0 to 6.5 assures the availability of essential nutrients. If the pH is too low or too high, uptake and use of nutrients is impaired. Apply lime as suggested in the soil test report to correct low pH.

Diseases can severely limit pecan production. The major disease is pecan scab. As mentioned earlier, the best way to control scab is to plant scab-resistant varieties. On susceptible varieties pecan scab, in many cases, cannot be controlled without spraying. Sanitation, however, can almost always help reduce losses from scab and other minor diseases. Nearly all fruit and foliage diseases of pecans, including scab, overwinter on plant parts infected the year before. Complete removal and destruction of leaves and shucks during the winter can reduce carry-over of scab and other diseases and help in their control. Removal of limbs touching the ground promotes air movement under the tree, which in turn helps reduce the leaf wetness necessary for disease infection. Spraying the lower limbs with a home garden sprayer will ensure disease control on these limbs. If you plan to spray, make the first application at bud swell and continue every 14-21 days to mid-August.

Insect management on yard pecans can be very difficult. Have you ever noticed that sticky stuff that gets all over pecan leaves? This sticky material is actually honeydew that is secreted from yellow aphids. If you discover an infestation of yellow aphids, wash leaves with a high-pressure hose sprayer. Wash as high as possible in tree. Repeat at least two times per week. Use of insecticidal soap may aid control.

As you can see, it is not difficult to take care of a yard tree. Like I said earlier, the biggest limiting factor is equipment. Even if we do all of the above, we must not forget to water. Pecans have a huge water requirement during August and September. Providing water during this time period will greatly help your pecans fill out.

Please do not hesitate to call the Extension Office (982- 4408) if you have any further questions.

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